Richard is spot on a pic would really help.I have had good results with maple burl using multiple coats of polymerized Tung oil and then using the Beall buffing system after the finish has cured. You can finish by applying several coats of any finish, but oil finishes won’t produce enough shine or depth to maximize the contrast you’re trying to achieve. Linseed oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru-Oil (which is nothing more than boiled linseed oil), Minwax's "Tung Oil Finish" and the various Watco Danish Oil finishes are all essentially the same. I'd use a rosewood fretboard (lemon oil only), on the neck, one coat of medium walnut Watco Danish oil for tint, then thinned Tru Oil buffed to a smooth satin finish. These oils tend to bring out the curly or tiger looks of the maple. A drying oil such as boiled linseed oil or a blend of oil and varnish (“Danish Oil”) can be made to look shinier and nicer with several coats. Tung oil, however, darkens less with time. Danish Oil. Here’s another “wiping” option that you might not even realize: ordinary oil-based polyurethane. Oil/varnish mixes, such as Danish oil, enhance grain while laying down a thin film. It's what is called an oil/varnish mixture. A polymerizing oil soaks into the wood and forms a relatively hard finish. You can buy Danish oil without a tint added to it (“Natural”) or in several wood stain colors. Incidentally, if you want to save some money you can buy any brand of linseed oil instead of the more expensive Danish oil. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Similarly to mineral oil, the term danish oil can apply to many different substances. Mineral oil will work fine but will leave the wood looking dull. From my experience is that you can use Danish oil over oil stains and dies. Even applying dyes is the same. Danish oil, which is yet another natural finish, is actually a type of Tung oil. As a rule i would say danish oil does not stay tacky. The build seems way to slow for a product that contains that much resin, but I'm not a chemist. but if its being applied to thickly, or if its applied to a particulalry oily piece of wood (cocobolo/bocote levels of oilyness) or if there was alreayd some kind of waxyfinish on the wood i would not be surprised if it had issues curing properly. The cherry and birch sometimes have darker blotches but no other problems. As discussed above, linseed oil comes in different varieties. I started finishing the body with a clear Danish Oil (Watco) to get some color, planning to coat it with wax or poly after. An oil such as tung oil or boiled linseed oil will also reveal and add punch to figure that may have been difficult to see in the raw board. Compare. Danish Oil. Tried and true oil, is a good choice for a project you want food safe. Danish oil should contain a high percentage of natural oil that is classified as a drying oil. I'm using a spalted maple top on basswood, and I have a maple neck with a rosewood fingerboard. WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil and varnish that hardens in the wood, not on the wood. I decided to run some tests using the Watco natural color on various hardwoods. Watco Danish Oil is intended as a complete finish. I used Danish oil to touch up a kitchen cabinet that had lots of scratches and wear. If the OP doesn’t want blotching, he needs to treat the wood before. So I need to try to remove the finish between frets so I can apply TRU OIL on the fretboard as well. The information in this blog post applies to all oil finishes. More Options Available. Danish oil is typically wiped on, allowed to soak in to the wood for a while and then excess remaining on the surface is wiped off. If you look carefully, the product is often actually labeled as “Danish Oil Finish” , which of course implies that it isn’t simply a pure oil. Similar but different problem. While oil finishes do a wonderful job at highlighting the figure in curly maple, they also add a gentle amber color. I first tried cherry and maple. Beware: Some finishes with "tung oil" in their name contain little or no real tung oil as an ingredient. On the body I'd use red aniline dye to get a red tinge then finish off with uncut Tru Oil and buffed for a semi-gloss finish. Danish oil is a penetrating wood finish that is related to both Tung oil and polymerized linseed oil. Danish Oil Application … The can reads, both: “Watco Danish Oil Finish is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish that stains, seals & protects in one easy step.” and Set your store to see local availability Add to Cart. I also always blow the eyes of the burls out with some compressed air as I'm wiping the applied finish. Many people confuse the different kinds of oil to be the same. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple eBay. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:36. Danish Oil on maple table This customer used Danish Oil on this maple table slab to bring out wood grains while slightly darkening the wood to achieve a rustic, yet modern look. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple + How To Use Danish Oil On Maple 09 Dec 2020 Check out our mexican shadowbox selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. The term “Danish Oil” is basically a catch all term for any oil-based wood finish. Similar, though I believe gunstock oil would be closer to that of Tru-oil. Using Tung oil on maple is like staining. Watco Danish oil is a brand of wood finish product also referred to as an oil/varnish blend, because it contains both penetrating oil and varnish. Danish oil can be used under other finishes and it can also act as its own finish. Dark Walnut 350 VOC Danish Oil (4-Pack) Model# 265501 $ 35 92 /case $ 35 92 /case Free delivery with $45 order. Should I rewipe it with more Danish, or Mineral Spirits, or something else, and wait for it to dry or try to remove it, and if so, with what? Watco Danish oil from a local hardware store works fine, it’s a thinner oil so we usually put on at least one more coat to help build the finish on the wood. Mineral oils won't do that. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. The 100% natural (pure boiled linseed oil and varnish resin) pro varnish oil is very thick and smooth as motor oil but is very slow drying compared to danish oil and similar commercial oil finishes that have metallic drying agents and thinners in their blend. Top Rated Watco 1 pt. Boiled linseed oil contains drying agents that let it cure overnight, but tung oil can take several days. Formby Tung Oil finish maybe, Watco Danish Oil, no way. Many projects can be completed in less than an hour - simply brush or wipe on and wipe off. Raw, polymerized, and boiled linseed oil are all derived from the flaxseed plant, but have been processed differently and to varying degrees. The term “Danish Oil” used today is a general term for a type of wood finish. It adds color, shine and a hard layer of protection. In my kitchen will be drawer fronts and cupboard doors of maple, aspen, and ash. Danish oil is great for finishing necks, I tend to put on about 5-6 coats. I then applied a generous amount of Watco Danish Oil to the surface and started to wet sand with 600 grit silicon carbide wet or dry paper. Linseed Oil vs Danish Oil vs Tung Oil. You'll have much better results with maple, cherry, or birch, which have tighter grains. Another commonly used finishing technique on maple is to apply tung oil or linseed oil after the final sanding. What is Danish Oil? ... 1½” maple if I had to guess. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. Watco Danish Oil and tung oil are two types of wood-finishing oil with distinctly different properties. It's designed to be an in-the-wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the grain rather than a smooth finish like you get with a varnish, shellac or lacquer. 5. I think I was a bit over zealous and didn't give it enough time between coats, and I hated how yellow it was turning out. Although it is also known as Chinese wood oil or linseed oil, it is definitely different from the latter. The plan is to use Watco Danish Oil Finish on the woods. Watco Danish Oil is a brand name of Danish oil. The oil is absorbed too deep. I have used Watco Danish Oil on cherry, oak, maple and birch plywood with absolutely no delamination. Both penetrate the entire fretboard and protect very well. First I prepared the wood in my normal manner by sanding with coarse, medium and then fine paper. This is the way I believe antique curly maple with highly defined curls was finished – a first coat of boiled linseed oil, followed probably by several coats of shellac. How To Make A Picture On A Piece Of Wood. In fact, the ambiguity with danish oil is even more severe. Follow the oil with a coat or two of shellac. It blended the color well and looked great going on but is still sticky 24 hours later. Products Used The first few coats just rub straight on as the wood soaks it up, then I use 400 grit sandpaper to rub it in, move on to 600 and finally 800. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:41. I had a roasted maple strat neck finished in one coat of Danish oil, front and back, but I have since sanded down the back and re-finished it in TRU OIL, as I prefer the feel and slightly lighter color of TO compared to DO. After about 15 coats of tinted oil and more gentle block sanding the flats of the headstock with slurry of oil for glassy smooth surface. Well, the oil component is once again typically linseed oil and/or tung oil, which is mixed with varnish, mineral spirits, and synthetic resins to make it durable and easy to work with. The only delamination problems I have had with ply were a couple of times with water-based latex paints for … Danish oil simply wipes on, and its varnish component forms a film on the wood surface for better protection. It often a top choice of finishes because it can be used on just about all types of wood surfaces. From what I read, danish oil is just BLO with some thinner and varnish mixed in in varying amounts. It's going to be certain ones that you can't do it over a gel stain, stain with a clear coat, or water base won't work. Watco Danish Oil vs. Polyurethane for Wood Finishing. Watco 1 pt. As a wood finish, linseed oil often gets compared to danish oil and tung oil. Danish oil is a super common finish among woodworkers, although it isn’t clearly defined. Conditioner, even a coat of Shellac, could make Maple wood yellow/Amber. For a more durable finish, top-coat over the shellac with a clear lacquer or polyurethane.

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